white bridge wanderings
Posted by wangbo in life in Beijing on January 24, 2008
So Matt, who is stopping in Beijing for a few days on his way back to Kunming, came over this way and we got lunch then we headed out looking for a temple that has always intrigued me.
I used to go through the Guangqumen area quite often. I used to prefer going up there to pay my phone bill at the phone office there. Slightly nutty, I know, considering it meant ten times the travel, but it meant I could be in and out of the phone office in only two or three minutes instead of having to wait an hour or two at the bank to perform that simple, two minute transaction. But somehow I remember my dalliances with Guangqumen going back much earlier than that, and I can’t think why. Anyway, all that wandering through the area made me aware that there was, perhaps, a temple just north of there. Somehow I remember signs saying 白庙, but as I discovered yesterday, they actually say 白桥. Nevermind, they pointed in the direction I wanted to go….
Anyway, what got me really intrigued was actually seeing that temple from the train as we went past on the way to or from Tianjin. But somehow, even though I escaped Tianjin a year and a half ago, I never got around to seeing it from the ground-level until yesterday afternoon.
So Matt came around and we got lunch and a couple of koubei to warm us up, then we headed back out into that howling, biting Gobi wind, and jumped on the next 34 bus to come along. Fortunately there are many 34s, so we didn’t have to wait too long. We got off at Guangming Lou and wandered northwards through the lanes that probably were hutongs 15 years ago, across Guangqumen Nei Dajie and up into Baiqiao. I spotted the temple behind a wall, and asked the guy at the gate we were standing next to how to get there. He said go back the way you come, the lane you just walked past will get you there. So we went, and found the front gate of the temple, and…
…it was closed.
Locked, very firmly closed.
Oh well, Matt got to see a slice of ordinary, regular Beijing that he hasn’t seen too much of before. I now know the way to that temple. Maybe at some later date it will be open.
But I didn’t pay attention to the name of the temple and I can’t find it on either my map, Google, or Baidu. And now my camera’s batteries are out of power (again) and so I can’t turn my camera on to see if I got enough of the cultural relic plaque in any photo to see what the name of the place was.
Oh well, having wasted our time, we retreated to a nearby cafe for warmth.
Anyway, once my batteries are recharged I’ll have a look at the photos I took and see if can get the name of the temple. And of course, if anybody knows anything about this temple, leave a comment. Otherwise, I might have to wander past again. There are other things nearby I want to have a closer look at, too. I’m just hoping this clear weather holds.
But frigid wind or no frigid wind, it was good to get out and get some fresh air and exercise. Good company helped of course, even if I did end up leading Matt on a wild goose chase (sorry ’bout that). I would also like to get out again this afternoon- I want to make good use of this weather before the place smogs up again.
study break
Posted by wangbo in life in Beijing on January 22, 2008
I told myself I’d set a rule that I would study from 10 to 12 every morning. It’s proving to be kinda difficult. Still, I have gotten a reasonable amount of textbook reading in, and I’m quite satisfied with how much of the texts I can understand without a dictionary despite not having done anything even remotely resembling study for several months. Study break now, I’ll get back into it at maybe about one.
I thought…
I thought Sinocidal had stopped posting…
I thought wrong. They have continued the inevitable slide from “occasionally funny venting session” to “rarely funny and almost never useful vent if you’re a cynical expat unhappily stuck in China” to “stupid, boring and pathetic racist drivel”. Not that that slide takes particularly long… Anyways, such sites can kinda serve their purpose and are actually kinda useful in their early, frustrated and venting expat stages, but it really doesn’t take too long before they sink into the “I’m a superior Westerner stuck in inferior China” bullshit. I’m sitting here wishing I’d never clicked on that link I should’ve (and very early on intended to) delete from my bookmarks.
But just so you know: Sinocidal is following in TTC’s ignoble tradition.
Oh, and before anybody asks, there is a bloody good reason for the lack of links.
oh, and…
Because I have been made aware (actually, on more than one occasion) that some people have noticed I maintain two almost identical blogs: This blog is my main blog. The over-blog blog is a “permanent backup”. Look, too many sites mysteriously disappear from the Chinese internet. I have for quite some time now maintained a permanent backup on one BSP or another in an attempt to make sure I have at least one blog open in China.
hghghghghghhg
Posted by wangbo in news, ranting, tilting at windmills on January 21, 2008
Two articles on china.org.cn have me oddly concerned:
Yeah, alright, I long since gave up expecting China to live up to its Marxist principles, but still…
…these two articles reek to me of rich city folk seeing maids as just another commodity to be bought and sold.
And that, dear reader, is fundamentally wrong in any country or culture.
I suppose it is too much to ask rich city folk to raise their own children.
Anyway, I say a nanny-shortage is a good thing. Judging by these articles, it will force rich city folk to go some way towards paying something approaching a decent wage to people they normally see as little more than domesticated animals, and perhaps even treating such people with a modicum of respect.
And besides, Spring Festival is approaching. It’s the most important festival in the Chinese calendar, a time you are supposed to spend with family. Why the hell is anybody complaining of a nanny-shortage? Shouldn’t they welcome the departure of their nannies as an opportunity for their nannies to fulfill familial obligations and as a chance to spend time with their own children without outside interference?
Yeah, I know, I’m being silly. Again. But those headlines and the articles they headed really rankled me.
bloody fakes
Posted by wangbo in life in Beijing on January 20, 2008
Two in as many days!
The one annoying thing about last night’s dinner was the taxi driver who brought us home. He started off by talking absolute horseshit about how he was really glad to see a Chinese person get in the car, because foreigners are so much trouble and never know how to tell him where they want to go. lzh pointed out that plenty of foreigners speak Chinese. I refrained from commenting. Considering how often I have had to guide Beijing taxi drivers around Beijing- even way back before all the suburban drivers came into the city- I don’t think I would’ve had anything positive to add to that discussion.
Anyways, to add injury to insult, he slipped us a fake 50 when we got home.
And he did that while rejecting a 100 he said was fake- but we’re pretty sure he didn’t have a chance to switch that one on us, too. It would seem that the fake 100 came with one of those weird, random bonuses lzh’s danwei hands out at apparently totally random moments. Her salary is deposited directly into her bank account, so there’s no chance of them handing out fakes with her salary (although one should always be careful of the ATM- lzh has banned me from ever taking money out of an ICBC ATM because they’re supposed to dispense the occasional fake), but those weird random bonuses are often paid in cash.
Anyway, I thought nothing of this driver rejecting that 100. The guy made it perfectly clear from the moment we stepped in the car that he was a total idiot. I, unthinkingly and totally unintentionally, handed it over in a local shop whose owners I trust. Rejected. Looked at in the clearer light of 4:30 in the afternoon, it was clearly fake.
Two fake notes in two days.
So, everybody, be careful. Fake money is still floating around out there.
snippets
Posted by wangbo in life in Beijing on January 20, 2008
Last night’s dinner was great. Good food, excellent company. Can’t ask for much more than that. We went to Feiteng Yuxiang, the branch on Chunxiu Lu- oddly enough, this is the best site I can find for it, but it does at least list addresses for some of their branches- for some good chuancai, and they certainly delivered. My only gripe was that the room was too warm- but that’s nothing to complain about in the middle of winter.
Actually, I really liked the gongbao jiding- it was the first gongbao jiding I’ve ever had that actually had a bit of spice too it. They’d put proper chillies into it instead of those pathetic northern Chinese non-spicy chillies.
But Jeremiah raised two points that I found interesting:
- The quality of commentary in the English-language China blogosphere has gone really downhill. Yep, unfortunately, and on certain bigger blogs more than others, comment threads are all too often childish slanging fests right from the get-go. It used to be you could actually get some intelligent, rational discussion in before the nutjobs dragged it off topic and started hurling abuse. Not any more.
- New Zealand companies advertising in China like to emphasise the New Zealand origins of their products. Jeremiah suggested this could be because of the general political inoffensiveness of New Zealand. It’s really hard to get angry at New Zealand. Of course, this also applies to Canada and Denmark (at least in China, and perhaps not among China’s Muslim population). I suspect, though, that they’re trying to trade off New Zealand’s “clean green” image. I just have to wonder how they expect that to work, though, they seem to running on too many assumptions. China is not North America or Western Europe, where that image may be strong. The only ads for New Zealand products I can recall seeing on TV (and I don’t watch a lot of TV- most of what I see I see because my wife is watching while I amuse myself with something else) are for Fonterra’s dairy products, and they do seem to emphasise the New Zealand connection, but I don’t recall seeing much about “clean and green”. That may be worth further investigation…
Of course, a conversation with Jeremiah is guaranteed to include many interesting points, those are just two that I found worth sharing with the wider world.
no direction home
I watched Martin Scorcese’s No Direction Home: Bob Dylan yesterday afternoon. It was one of those days towards the end of a frustrating week that couldn’t end early enough, I needed to get a little time and space somewhere far away for an afternoon.
It’s an incredible film, and one that (fortunately for my needs) takes an entire afternoon. Two discs, after all. And plenty of extra material and special features to be explored afterwards. It’s a brilliant film, and yet totally laid back. There’s no director, it’s just Bob Dylan and his various friends and promoters and associates and musicians and hangers-on telling their stories. Bob Dylan, Allen Ginsberg, Joan Baez, Peter Yarrow, Liam Clancy and many, many others just given the space to say their piece. And footage of concerts and press conferences and recording studios and Hibbing, Minnesota in the 1940s and ’50s and the road and photos of everyone and everything all mixed in.
And footage of a certain president in Dallas towards the end of November of 1963 and “It’s a hard rain’s a-gonna fall”, the music pausing for the gunshots, the film fortunately not showing the bullets hitting.
But there’s one impression that has been lingering in the back of for years now that the film reinforced: Baby boomers really are a bunch of spoilt, selfish, childish little brats, aren’t they? I mean, it’s one thing disliking or even disapproving of an artist’s work, it’s something entirely different to demand that that artist return to his former style or that he fulfill a role you force him into, a role he neither asked nor sought for. The footage of these concerts in which he is being constantly heckled and even abused for daring to play an electric guitar with a backing band is simply incredible. Who the hell did these people think they were? And as the young Bob Dylan pointed out backstage at one of these concerts: The tickets were selling awfully fast considering how much abuse he took. But his calm in the face of this abuse was most impressive. He hardly reacted except to utter one or two very measured sentences. The only bit where we see him snap is when he’s in a car leaving the concert and he yells out the window at people to stop booing. Of course, in the backstage footage, the frustration is obvious, and the footage is edited: we don’t get a fly-on-the-wall view of the whole tour. Still, his calm on stage was most impressive. But still: Who the hell did these people think they were, trying to force Bob Dylan into one narrow little style and some absurd role? If they didn’t like his artistic direction, all they had to do was stop listening. Nothing at all wrong with them expressing their disapproval, either.
There is an element of genius and even a little something of the prophetic in Bob Dylan’s music and it is far from difficult to see how he achieved his position. But to force this young man into a role of leadership he never asked for when all he was doing was expressing himself is utterly absurd.
And it doesn’t help to improve my impression of that generation of Westerners.
Anyway, it’s a great film. It also confirmed the impression I got from his Chronicles that the only way to understand Bob Dylan is to just listen and not try to understand.
another loss
And so Hone Tuwhare has also passed away. Damn, he was by far my favourite New Zealand poet. Well, no, just plain one of my favourites. He was a boiler maker by trade with not terribly much in the way of formal education, but he was a natural poet who could speak directly to the soul.
He published the first book of poetry by a Maori writer in English, No Ordinary Sun, in 1964. Here is what I think is one of the most powerful poems from that book:
Mauri
Ere gods were shaped
to polished images of brass
and fired clay
the meek stone hardened
to a consciousness its own.
From its soul’s core sun
to another sun responded:
succoured the lonely man
his tribe’s invention of trees
sweeping the sky’s floor clean
When gods were fused
to an angered one
all-seeing triple-faced
still
did this man’s tribe store
reverence for the stone
from whence plants sprang
sweet water leapt:
and jeaolous of its well-spring
destroyed utterly
the new god’s sour
and honeyed strength
turning alas
the meek stone’s joy
to a cloud
to an ashen face.
(taken from the 1998 re-edition of 1964’s No Ordinary Sun)
I guess one thing that shows clearly the era in which No Ordinary Sun was published and just how new it was to have a Maori poet publishing in English for a general, and not specifically Maori, audience, is that even in the 1998 re-edition, Mauri comes with a footnote explaining:
Mauri is a material symbol of the hidden principle protecting vitality. Life principle, talisman, thymos of man. (Denotative meaning taken from Dictionary of Maori Language by Rev. Hoani Laughton.)
I once saw Hone Tuwhare at a poetry reading in Dunedin back in my Scarfie days: Imagine that poem read by the rambling, surly voice of a burly boiler-maker who still looked like he’d feel more comfortable in the railyards than surrounded by young intellectual types in a cafe.
Such a sad January for Aotearoa. A New Year of giants falling and legends passing into weak memory.
Fishing
Posted by wangbo in tilting at windmills on January 16, 2008
It’s certainly too early for me to fully process this most excellent entry at Language Log– actually, I would rate it as the best entry at Language Log I’ve ever read- but it’s well worth a read. And it comes with links to further discussion on the topic- and following those links, I’ve eventually and somewhat obliquely made my way to the original Fish blogs that started it all (of course, Liberman provided links right at the start of his post, but I ignored them at first, and by the time I got to the end, I forgot they were there). Now I must read them before continuing… Actually, no, follow that link, and then all the other links on that page, it’s simply going to take too long for me to read through everything, and I have a meeting in half an hour.