aiya

Another wedding.

Another reason to stay away from the newly rich.

Another day lost- this time to the low blood sugar level resulting from the lack of edible food at the wedding. Really, you would’ve thunk a five-star hotel could put on a pretty decent spread, but this one only confirmed my prejudice that the less you spend the better your food.

I’m still in recovery mode now- recovery getting my blood sugar back up to something reasonable and making sure I’m properly hydrated- cos it’s getting hot and humid outside.

I don’t want to complain too much, so I’m going to stop now.

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all electric

So the Beijing subway is going all electric, getting rid of the old paper tickets. Finally. Yeah, alright, it’s been bloody obvious for a while, what with the necessary equipment being installed in the stations. But this article by 新京报/The Beijing News’ Zuo Lin suggests the system is just about all ready to go and will be open for business on May 17.

Anyway, I don’t really want to translate it, or even read the whole thing, because there’s a big, huge, long post involving a lot of translation that I started on Saturday, which was interrupted by the HSK, and for which I’m trying to find the energy to finish.

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yep

Yep, definitely got to get myself down to Qianmen in the next couple of weeks to have a look around.

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hsk

So it wasn’t so bad after all.

Well, this morning started far too early. Exams, after all, have never been conducive to a good night’s sleep. I woke up about quarter past four and couldn’t get back to sleep, and eventually gave up, got up, and started getting ready. I took my time, of course, having far more time than I’d planned. Anyway, got out the door as planned before seven. About quarter to seven, I believe.

Across the road, and, shit, ran into a huge mob of high school kids just about to start their visit of BeiGongDa or something. Anyway, managed to get through that unscathed and to the bus stop. After what felt like an hour but was probably only ten minutes, a 649 finally came. Got on, didn’t have to wait too long before I got a seat. Somehow, there just wasn’t any traffic to speak of, and not long afterwards I got off the bus at Chajiafen, on the other side of the Jingtong Expressway from ErWai’s south gate. Check the time: 7:26. No way. I’m there one hour and thirty four minutes early. Damn.

So I crossed the road and went into ErWai and wandered round, first looking for a toilet, then looking to kill time. After a bit of aimless wandering- after all, ErWai isn’t that big a university, and Chaoyang Lu outside the north gate was being torn up and widened, making it a less than salubrious location for an early morning stroll- I wound up just waiting outside my test room. For the remaining hour.

And the test itself? Well, the practice tests I’d been using (although not as well as I should’ve been) had me thinking that maybe HSK isn’t quite so daunting as it’s cracked up to be. Today’s test confirmed that. Don’t get me wrong: I’m not particularly confident of getting a high score, and I’m sure I cocked up big time on many questions. In fact, I’m expecting a relatively low score. But it’s certainly doable, and I’m sure I could’ve done a lot better with more intense preparation.

I would say the biggest issue, really, was time. Listening, well, there’s no way to make that go faster or slower, but the other sections did feel a little pressed. Even so, I finished everything within the allotted time, and was only still writing on one section as the examiner called five minutes left.

Second biggest issue, naturally, is vocab, and I think that’s what will have caught me out in most questions. There’s no easy answer to that, though, only the simple, yet hard: So more study then!

Of course, this was only the 初中级 (intermediate). I would like to move on to the 高级 (advanced) as soon as I can, and from what I understand, that’s a whole different kettle of fish.

Unfortunately I have a class to teach this evening.

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ready?

3 HB pencils, sharpened; 1 rubber (eraser- just so you yanks don’t start wondering just what kind of test I’m preparing for); 2 pens, not called for and completely unnecessary, probably, but just in case- no, three pens; test registration certificate and passport, all in a bag by the door ready to go. Alarm set for 5:55 am (is it? CHECK NOW! yes [phew] it is), plan to be ready, together, and out the door BEFORE 7, onto the 649 and at the ErWai south gate with shitloads of time to spare- diligence of the public transport workers and vagaries of Beijing’s traffic willing, of course.

Matt, mate, you’re probably going to kick my arse on this. As for me, I’m not overly hopeful about this HSK thing, but hey, it’s only the first round, there’ll be another chance towards the end of the year.

Wish me luck, I’m going to need it.

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more clang-clang cars

And yes, I’m running with Micah‘s translation “clang-clang cars”, because it does make more sense. 新京报/The Beijing News’ Wang Cheng is back on the scene, and this article has cool shots, again by TBN’s Han Meng, of the interiors of the trams, which look beautifully retro:

But there’s a problem:

 铛铛车试跑 动力将改进

Clang-clang car test run.  Power needs to be improved

车内空调、电视等设备已通过测试,车厢内采用生态木地板、实木坐椅

Onboard aircon, TV and other equipment have already passed testing, ecological wood flooring and real wood benches used in the cabin

昨天,铛铛车“前门一号”和“前门二号”分别试跑了50米,因出站遇斜坡比较费劲,北京地铁车辆厂工作人员表示下一步将做加大电车牵引力的改进。

Yesterday, the clang-clang cars “Qianmen No. 1” and “Qianmen No. 2” had separate test runs of 50 metres, and because they met a rise requiring more power leaving the station, Beijing Subway Car Factory workers said the next step would be to improve the trams’ traction force.

昨天下午,工人们仍在修缮和更换被“铛铛车”碾裂的大理石和汉白玉路基,与此同时,停靠在“正阳桥”牌坊东西两侧的“前门一号”和“前门二号”车里,技术人员也在对车内设备进行调试,随后做试运行,分别从车站往南驶出50米后折返回。

Yesterday afternoon, workers were still repairing and replacing the marble and white marble roadbed that had been cracked under the “clang-clang cars”, at the same time, inside “Qianmen No. 1” and “Qianmen No. 2” stopped at the east and west ends of the “Zhengyang Bridge” archway, technical staff were debugging the equipment in the trams, then doing a test run with each tram separately driving south for 50 metres then returning.

北京地铁车辆厂一工作人员称,“铛铛车”出站拐弯处出现一个小斜坡,经过时比较费劲,下一步将考虑对电车牵引力做加大改进。车里的空调、移动电视等设备目前已顺利通过测试。

A worker from the Beijing Subway Car Factory said the “clang-clang cars” met a slight rise as they turned out of the station for which they needed more power to pass, and the next step would be to consider how to increase the traction power of the trams. The onboard aircon mobile TV and other equipment have already successfully passed tests.

昨天,“铛铛车”试跑结束后,工人开始给车厢里地板做装修,铺上了黑色的木地板。北京地铁车辆厂一工作人员称,两辆车里的地板全用生态木铺设,而两排黄色的坐椅也采用实木制作。

Yesterday, after the test run of the “clang-clang cars”, workers begin installing  the flooring in the cabins, laying black wooden flooring. A worker from the Beijing Subway Car Factory said that all the flooring laid in the two trams was ecological wood, and the two rows of yellow wooden benches were also made from real wood.

据北京地铁车辆厂工作人员介绍,昨天是“铛铛车”调试的第一天,以后还陆续对电车充电器等设备进行调试。

According to a worker from the Beijing Subway Car Factory, yesterday was the first day of debugging the “clang-clang cars”, and later equipment such as the trams’ recharging equipment would be debugged.

 And dammit, I get half-way through this then nciku craps out again! After a day of unobstructed use!

I assume that be “ecological wood” they mean sustainably harvested wood. Interesting, then, that the article makes the distinction between the “ecological” wooden floors and the “real” wood benches. Should we take this to mean that the wood for the benches was torn from some old-growth tropical hardwood forest in blatant violation of all principles of sustainable, environmentally-friendly forest management? I hope not.

And I hope they manage to get some more power into those trams. They may be all cool and retro, but it’s just plain embarrassing if they can’t even get over a small bump when Shanghai is planning 70 km/h trams.

 

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Yanqing transport

Right, now that I’m back from the supermarket, and as I’m cooking and eating lunch: Yanqing’s going to get new trains and rearranged highways (and new wells and new heating systems). 新京报/The Beijing News’ Liao Ailing reports:

延庆县城将开城郊铁路

Yanqing will open a suburban rail line

力争奥运前开通,届时80分钟可从西直门到延庆

Striving to open before the Olympics. Only 80 minutes from Xizhimen to Yanqing when complete.

昨日,延庆县县长孙文锴做客北京城市服务管理广播时称,一条从西直门出发,途经居庸关、八达岭,直至延庆的短途城郊铁路,力争在奥运会前开通。届时,只需用1小时20分钟就可从市区到达延庆县城。

Yesterday, while a guest at Beijing Public Service Radio, Yanqing County Mayor Sun Wenkai said hard work was being done to open a short-distance suburban rail line from Xizhimen through Juyongguan and Badaling to Yanqing before the Olympics. When it is complete, it will only take 1 hour 20 minutes to get from the city area to Yanqing county town.

八达岭高速走客运车,新110国道走货运车

Passenger vehicles will use Badaling Expressway, a new state highway 110 to be used by freight traffic.

据孙文 锴介绍,延庆是西北交通要道,过去经常堵车。110国道被升级改造后,新建了用于货运的专用高速路,即新110国道,其一期工程延庆段33公里已通车,二 期工程将于奥运会前竣工。届时,新110国道向南与六环路连通,向北连接京张高速,可以完全实现进京交通的客货车分流,八达岭高速走客运车辆,新110国 道走货运车,交通拥堵问题会彻底解决。

According to Sun Wenkai, Yanqing is a vital transport link to the northwest, and in the past frequently suffered traffic jams. After work to raise the standard of State Highway 110, work on the second stage of the newly built special freight traffic expressway, namely the New State Highway 110, whose first stage, 33-kilometre Yanqing stretch is already open to traffic, will be completed by the Olympics. Then the New State Highway 110 will connect with the Sixth Ring Road in the south and the Jingzhang [Beijing-Zhangjiakou] Expressway in the north, allowing the complete separation of passenger and freight traffic into Beijing to be realised, with passenger vehicles using the Badaling Expressway and freight vehicles using the New State Highway 110, completely resolving the problem of traffic congestion.

同时,为解决城区到八达岭和延庆县城的轨道交通问题,市政府和铁道部对现有京包铁路进行改造,力争在奥运会前开通从西直门途经居庸关、八达岭到延庆县城的城郊铁路。每日对开10趟列车,1小时20分钟就可到延庆县城。

At the same time, to solve the problem of the transport from the city area to Badaling, the municipal government and the Ministry of Railways are rebuilding the existing Jingbao [Beijing-Baotou] Railway, and are striving to open a suburban railway from Xizhimen through Juyongguan and Badaling to Yanqing county town. There will be 10 trains each day, arriving in Yanqing county town in one hour and twenty minutes.

That’s it for transport. The article goes on to talk about relieving a shortage of drinking water and promoting energy-saving, environmentally friendly and cheap heating in rural areas. How are these related? Well, it’s really a report about the county mayor’s interview on the radio, and these are the other two big issues covered.

延庆将打造新井解决农民吃水难

Yanqing will dig new wells to resolve farmers’ drinking water problems

“吃水 难”是延庆农民反映的焦点问题。来自延庆旧县镇芍药峪村和珍珠乡八亩地大队的村民都向县长“诉苦”,由于干旱,只能靠村大队用车从井里抽水,根本不够用。 孙文锴表示,去年延庆遭遇大旱,导致几个村子吃水难,今年已经把这些村列入了计划,将为村民打造新井,解决吃水难的问题。

The “drinking water problem” is the reported central problem for Yanqing farmers. Villagers from Zhenzhu Village Bamudi Brigade and Shaoyaoyu Village in Yanqing’s Jiuxian Township have all been grumbling to the county mayor. Because of drought, they can only use village brigade vehicles to draw water from wells, and it just isn’t enough. Sun Wenkai stated that Yanqing experienced a drought last year, causing problems with access to drinking water in several villages, and this year these villages have already been entered into a plan to dig new wells for farmers, resolving the drinking water problem.

延庆居民申玉龙向县长提建议:“现在农村多烧煤取暖,既费钱又不环保,可否也实现集中供暖?”孙文锴称,目前农村使用集中供暖还不太现实,由于建设成本高,大多数村不具备这样的条件。

Yanqing resident Shen Yulong suggested to the county mayor: “Currently many farmers burn coal for height, which both wastes money and harms the environment. Is it possible to install central heating?” Sun Wenkai said, that at present it’s central heating in rural areas is still quite impractical, because installation costs are high, and so most villages don’t have these conditions.

延庆将在农村地区重点推广两种取暖方式,一是使用新型节能吊炕,会使室温提高3℃至5℃,节省燃料50%。二是推广秸秆气化取暖,使用秸秆燃料,可以把暖气片和节能吊炕联合起来,“延庆农民很快就可以用上节能、环保、廉价的取暖设备了。”

Yanqing will popularise two kinds of heating in the countryside. One is the use of new model, energy-saving “suspended kangs“, which can raise the temperature of rooms by 3 to 5 degrees celsius, saving 50% on fuel. The second is popularising the use of straw-gasification heating, using straw as fuel, which can combine a radiator and energy-saving suspended kang. “Yanqing’s farmers will very soon be able to use energy-saving, environmentally friendly, cheap heating equipment.”

Then there’s a “related article” about roadworks on the Badaling expressway ending, relieving congestion on the road, but I don’t think we need to go into that.

Well, first up, I had no idea what a “吊炕” was, and funnily enough, it didn’t show up in any dictionary. If you’ve ever seen a kang, you’ll know the idea of one somehow hanging from something is, well, more absurd than a Dalì painting. A kang, after all, is a large, brick platform several metres long and a couple of metres deep. Not the kind of thing you hang from anything. But the pictures in that Baidu link seemed to suggest a “吊炕” was a kang raised up off the ground on brick pillars, which makes more sense, and so I decided to call it a “suspended kang”, even though it’s no more suspended than it is hung.

Secondly, at one hour and twenty minutes from Xixhimen to Yanqing county town, there’s no real advantage of taking the train to Yanqing than the 919 bus, unless you live closer to Xizhimen than Deshengmen- as is the case for most residents of Haidian- or for some reason (snow, perhaps?) the roads are closed but the railway is still open (lzh and I have had to contemplate that before, but fortunately the highway opened before we headed out to Kangzhuang station). I mean, the bus generally takes an hour and a quarter, and once the bloody trucks are off the expressway, it’ll probably be quicker. Still, I can see the train making transport to and from the Great Walls at Juyongguan and Badaling more convenient, especially for tourists.

And I can’t wait for them to get the bloody trucks off the expressway. I don’t know how it’s so hard for the truck drivers to understand that they are supposed to stay in the right lane allowing faster traffic to pass them in the left lane. Too much diesel fumes on the brain? And let me tell you, the old State Highway 110 from the county town out to our village is a much, much more pleasant road now that the trucks are on the first section of the New 110.

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more on qianmen

No, it’s not just trams, but a railway museum, too. And this article is a couple of days old, but I’ve had trouble connecting to nciku (apparently because I’m on a university network, and nciku runs on another of the backbones of the Chinese internet, and the two don’t always cooperate so well- or something like that (could this also explain why things like Baidu Baike can take such a long time to load?)) and my good dictionary was stuck in the office (poor sod- I’ve rescued him, though). Anyway, after that post on the Qianmen trams, I came across this article on Qianlongwang about establishing a new railway museum in the old railway station. A much more appropriate use for the building than a shopping centre, as it currently is.

前门火车站将“变身”博物馆

Qianmen Railway Station will “turn into” a museum

位于天安门广场东南角的京奉铁路正阳门东车站旧址(俗称前门火车站),这座人们熟悉的老车站商城,将作为北京铁路博物馆于今年8月1日对观众正式开放。目前,前门老车站正裹着一层严严实实的绿色保护网,在展陈布置前接受一次全面的修缮。

Situated at the southeast corner of Tiananmen Square, the former site of the Jingfeng Railway Zhengyangmen East Station (commonly called Qianmen Railway Station), this Old Station Shopping Centre familiar to the people will serve as the Beijing Railway Museum, formally opening to the public on 1 August this year. At present, Qianmen Old Station is wrapped tightly in a layer of green protective netting, being renovated before the arrangement of exhibitions.

据参与博物馆筹建的首都铁路公关协会工作人员介绍,筹建中的北京铁路博物馆展馆有地上三层和地下一层,一层规划为固定展览《中国铁路百年发展史》,京张铁 路、京奉铁路,清政府与铁路将是展览重点。二层为固定展览《改革开放30年中国铁路现代化发展成就展》,我国几次铁路提速以来的现代化装备实物或模型等将 是展览重点。

According to a worker with the Capital Railway Public Relations Organisation establishing the museum, the Beijing Railway Museum under construction will have three floors above ground and one below ground. The first floor is planned to hold the fixed exhibition “History of 100 Years of Development of Chinese Railways”, with the Jingzhang and Jingfeng Railways, and the Qing government and railways as the key points of the exhibit. The second floor will hold the fixed exhibition “Exhibition of the Modernisation, Development and Accomplishments of the Chinese Railways over the 30 Years of Reform and Opening Up”, key points of this exhibition covering the modernisation of equipment and models since the speeds on China’s railways have been raised several times.

一台动车组的模拟驾驶舱将出现在二层展区,这台驾驶舱的模拟时速最高可达350公里。在一层展区,中国人制造的第一台蒸汽机车“龙号”机车的等大复原模型 将展示,铺设在“龙号”机车模型下面的铁轨取材自京郊延庆的康庄,是从詹天佑设计监修的第一条中国自建铁路———京张铁路上整体截下的一段,还刻有 “1908”的字样。

In the exhibition area on the second floor there will be a simulated train crew’s control compartment, whose highest simulated speed will reach 350 km/h. On the first floor exhibition area, a restored model of the first steam engine built by Chinese people, the locomotive “Dragon”, will be displayed, and the rails the locomotive “Dragon” sits on will be taken from Kangzhuang in the Beijing suburb of Yanqing, from China’s first self-built railroad, designed by Zhan Tianyou- a section of the Jingzhang Railway, still bearing the number “1908”.

目前,筹建中的北京铁路博物馆已开始陆续接收来自全国各地的参展展品。

Currently, the Beijing Railway Museum still under construction is receiving exhibits one after the other from every corner of China.

新闻内存

News memory

  前门老站记录中国铁路百年历史

Qianmen Old Station records China’s hundred years of railway history

北京人俗称的前门老火车站,它真正的名字叫“正阳门东车站”,只要到过天安门广场的人可能都曾从它门前经过。该建筑位于天安门广场东南角,为欧式建筑,始建于1901年(光绪27年),落成于1906年,至今已有百余年历史。

What Beijingers commonly call Qianmen Old Railway Station is in fact called “Zhengyangmen East Station”, quite possibly all those who have been to Tiananmen Square have all passed by its doors. Construction of this European-style building situated on the southeast corner of Tiananmen Square began in 1901 (27th year of Guangxu), and was completed in 1906, and already has over a hundred years of history behind it.

建成后,前门老火车站成了当时全国最大的火车站,车站站房建筑面积3500平方米。站内三座站台,长度377米,候车室总面积达1500平方米,是当时中 国最大的交通枢纽。此后,该建筑经历了从清末民初、北洋政府、日伪统治、国民党统治到新中国成立的不同历史阶段,站名从正阳门东站、前门站、北平站、北平 东站到北京站,经历多次演变,至1959年9月15日,新北京站开通运营,这座建筑完成了它作为铁路车站的历史使命。

When it was built, Qianmen Old Station was the biggest railway station in China at that time, covering an area of 3500 square metres. With three  377-metre long platforms and a 1500-square metre waiting room, it was the biggest transportation hub in China at the time. Later, passed through the different stages of history from the end of the Qing and early days of the Republic, the Beiyang Warlords government, Japanese puppet rule, Kuomintang rule, through to the establishment of New China, and the name of the station has changed many times from Zhengyangmen East Station through Qianmen Station, Beiping Station, Beiping East Station to Beijing Station, until 15 September 1959 when the new Beijing Station was opened, bringing this building’s historical mission as a railway station to an end.

上世纪60年代初,老车站首先被改造成铁道部的科技馆,不久之后又被收归北京铁路局,改建成北京铁路工人文化宫,候车室则被改造成剧场使用多年。直至上世纪90年代,建成老车站商城。

In the early 60s of last century, the old station first became a science and technology institute of the Railways Ministry, but before long was returned to the Beijing Railway Bureau and became the Beijing Railway Workers Cultural Palace, with the waiting room being used as a theatre for many years. In the 90s of the last centure it became the Old Station Shopping Centre.

I found two irritating little problems in this:

  1. What is the 京奉铁路? At first I read it as Jing-Qin and assumed it ran to Qinhuangdao, but then I realised it was fèng, and I started looking around. I can’t find anything about a 京奉铁路, though, and I can’t find a meaning for 奉 that refers to a place. I thought, well, maybe it is mean to be 京秦铁路 and somehow got mixed up in some non-pinyin-based IME- the characters are pretty similar, after all. No, clearly not.  My question was answered almost by accident. Read below.
  2. I’m assuming “清末民初” refers to “the end of the Qing and early days of the Republic”. I couldn’t find any clear reference, though.

As for Zhan Tianyou and the Jingzhang Railway, my new book Filming as War Clouds Loom in 1937- 6000km with a Cinecamera by Sun Mingjing, translated by Sun Jianqiu (Beijing, Foreign Languages Press, 2006), had some pretty interesting words:

The railway line between Nankou and Qinglongqiao (meaning Blue Dragon Bridge) slopes upward. The locomotive was placed at the tail end of the train for fear that carriages might get disconnected and be left behind. There are several forked byrails along the section for the train to branch off in case it can’t move any further. The far end of each branch line is much higher, so when the train starts to move again, it can rapidly accelerate down the slope to climb a further steeper one ahead. Normal trains with massive locomotives have no need to use the branch lines. These forking branches are designed for extraordinarily heavy trains and also as a necessary safety measure.

[…..]

The story of the construction of the Pingsui Railway is a long one. In 1898, when Russia obtained the authority to construct the Jinghan Railway, it demanded from the Qing Government the authority to extend the railway line all the way to Kulun Kyakhta in Russia. Britain objected, but didn’t speak straight out. Instead, it persuaded the Qing Government to allow it to construct the Jing-Zhang Railway (from Beiping to Zhangjiakou) using British capital. In 1905, guranteed by the British government, the Qing government borrowed five million yuan from the Jing-Feng [Beijing-Shenyang] Railway and some railway companies inside and outside the Shanhaiguan Pass and began to construct the railway. However, after the survey work was completed the foreign experts all agreed that due to the mountain ridges it would be a difficult project that would cost at least 100 million yuan [about U.S. $12.5 million]. In answer to the knotty problem, Mr. Zhan Tianyou avoided the digging of long tunnels but designed these branch lines instead. Though the slope is much steeper than the normal standard, it is still safe for the trains. The most ingenious part of his design is the big curve at the Qinglongqiao Station. When the northbound train from Nankou arrives at Qinglongqiao with no more slopes ahead, it turns toward the west instead of travelling further north, following a route in the shape of a letter “Y”. Then it goes through the Badaling tunnel, which is more than 300 m long, and slopes down to Kangzhuang. The line after Kangzhuang is smooth, and massive locomotives can complete their journeys with ease.

(pages 91 – 92)

All of which I think is pretty cool.

And there’s more news on Yanqing and trains, but that will have to wait. I need lunch.

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summer already?

It’s been seeming for a couple of weeks already that we’ve already entered summer weather patterns- but mercifully without the heat. Yet. I mean, long periods of murky humidity getting thicker and more choking with each day, followed by rain or wind to clear the place out for a day or two. And then just as I got home the sky started growing dark. Ominously, threateningly dark, like just before a summer storm. Then I smelled spring rain- spring rain is alright, but not the pounding summer rain.

It has started to rain now, lightly, but the sky is still dark and ominous, the breeze is picking up, and it feels like a summer storm really is on the way. Bit early for all that, but I’ve been suspecting for a long time now that we’re in for a long, hot, stormy summer this year.

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Qianmen trams

I think I’ll have to get myself down to Qianmen with a camera some time in the next couple of weeks. It seems the renovations are nearly done, and this article heralds the return of trams to the streets of Beijing. It’s hard to tell, exactly, from those two photos by 新京报/The Beiing News’ Han Meng, but it seems that the trams might have a certain retro style to them:

But black and white works better:

Anyway, the article, by TBN’s Wang Cheng, tells us:

昨日,“铛铛车”前门一号、二号电动车开进前门大街,随后分别驶进正阳桥东西两头车站停候,预计五一前后试运行。

Yesterday, the  “clank-clank cars” [trams- anybody got a better slang term?] , the trams Qianmen No. 1 and Qianmen No. 2 drove into Qianmen Dajie then split up, one going to each of the two stations to the east and west of Zhengyang Bridge. Test operations are planned to begin around May 1.

早6时许完成装车工作

Tram installation work finished around 6am

昨日11时许,两辆车头分别标有“前门一号“和“前门二号”的铛铛车缓缓地从前门大街南头驶来,在长达800多米铁轨上走走停停,穿过“正阳桥”南面两侧的盆景树,分别驶进“正阳桥”东西两头的车站。

At around 11 yesterday, the two trams named “Qianmen No. 1” and “Qianmen No. 2” slowly drove up from the south end of Qianmen Dajie, going and stopping along a tramline of over 800 metres, passing through the bonsai trees on the two sides of the road south of “Zhengyang Bridge”, splitting up with one entering each station on the east and west sides of “Zhengyang Bridge.”

昨日下午6时,在“前门一号”车站附近施工的工人们称,“铛铛车”于昨日凌晨运抵前门大街南头,卸载后,用吊车安装到大街南头的铁轨上,直至早6时许才基本完成轨道上的装车工作。

At around 6 yesterday evening, construction workers near “Qianmen No. 1″‘s station said the “clank-clank cars” were shipped to the south end of Qianmen Dajie in the early hours of yesterday morning, and after they were unloaded, a crane lifted them onto their tracks, and the installation work on the tramline had basically been finished by about 6 am.

开放式的铛铛车车站

Open-style clank-clank car station

正阳桥牌坊北面东西两头,分别是“前门一号”和“前门二号”的车站,在铁轨的尽头,分别立着两根电线杆,旁边是个开放式的车站。

North of the Zhengyang Bridge archway are the “Qianmen No. 1” and “Qianmen No. 2” stations, one to the east, one to the west. At the end of the line are two power poles, next to which are open-style stations.

昨日,附近施工的工人们称,这是铛铛车的“加油站”,车一进站可立即充电。一工人回忆,该车昨日中午第一次进站时,因车载电量不足,车子没法开动,后在人工的合力下,才把车子推进了站里。

Yesterday nearby construction workers said this was the clank-clank cars’ “filling station”. When the trams enter the station they can immediately recharge their batteries. One worker recalled that when the trams entered the station for the first time around midday yesterday, because one tram didn’t have enough electricity, it couldn’t move, and so it had to be pushed into the station.

新旧铛铛车外形不同

Appearance of new and old clank-clank cars not the same

两辆“铛铛车”按复古样式来制作:湖蓝色车顶、浅绿色车厢、棕色与湖蓝色相间的车底,车顶上安有电车充电滑行天线。每辆车两头都有牵引车头,车中部置有两排椅子,车厢内装有拉手。

The two “clank-clank cars” were built according to the old style: light blue roof, light green body, alternate brown or light blue chassis, a power pole on the roof. Each tram has a tow bar at each end, in the centre are two rows of benches, and there are hand rails inside.

“铛铛车时隔半个世纪后重返前门大街,车的样子变了。”昨日,万福物业公司50多岁的保安沈师傅称,原来的“铛铛车”车厢四周是敞开的。

“Returning to Qianmen Dajie half a century after the age of clank-clank cars, the trams’ appearance has changed.” Mr Shen, the 50-something security guard of Wanfu Property Management Company said, originally the  four sides of the “clank-clank cars” were open.

据工人们透露,随着整改工期的结束,预计“铛铛车”“五一”前后可试运行。

According to workers, along with the completion of the renovation work, test runs of the “clank-clank cars” are expected around May Day.

■ 铛铛车简历

■ History of clank-clank cars

铛铛车是北京老居民对有轨电车的称呼,原先由司机站立开车,在行驶过程中,司机不断地用脚踩响铃铛,发出 “dangdang”之响提醒行人注意,因而音译为“铛铛车”。北京市第一条有轨电车于1914年12月正式通车,路线南起前门,经司法部街、西单、西 四、新街口至西直门,全程9公里。此后,北京的西长安街、永定门、天坛北、北京体育馆路等路线也陆续开通有轨电车。前门至天桥的有轨电车因后来城区改造, 于上世纪五六十年代停运,至今已有半个世纪之久。

“Clank-clank cars” are what old Beijing residents called trams, originally because the drivers drove standing up, and as they drove, constantly trod on the bell, making a “clank-clank” sound to warn pedestrians to be careful, and so they came to be called “clank-clank cars”. The route began at Qianmen and passed through Fabu Jie, Xidan, Xisi and Xinjiekou to Xizhimen, 9 kilometres in all. Later Beijing’s West Changan Jie, Yongdingmen, Tiantan North, and Beijing Gymnasium tram routes opened successively. Because of changes in the city area, the Qianmen to Tianqiao line ceased operating in the 1950s or 1960s of last century, already half a century ago.

Alright, I decided it was fun to call trams “clank-clank cars”. I mean, it’s a pretty appropriate name for them, really.

I also think it’s cool that they’ve been renovating the Qianmen area to some approximation of the ’20s or ’30s or whatever their plan was. This city needs a lot more development with local character, not that bland, international, just-like-every-bloody-other-city rubbish like we’ve got around the CBD or those fancy apartment blocks around Jiulongshan.

Sure, hutong redevelopment has so far turned out to have a bit of an “ersatz” look to it so far- Nanchizi, for example. But:

  1. “Ersatz Lao Beijing” is better than no Lao Beijing. Really. And with time and the rise of more culturally-aware people to positions of influence and leadership, things will improve.
  2. The hutongs were never frozen in any sort of static, “This Is Lao Beijing” state. I mean, take a stroll through the hutongs and pay attention- it’s surprising just how many late-19th/early-20th century “Western”-style buildings can be found, and how many “Western”-looking elements were incorporated into otherwise Chinese buildings. Oh, and weren’t many of the crumbling, over-crowded courtyards of today originally beautiful family homes- as in homes for a single, wealthy family? Current hutong renovation projects are just the latest round of renewal and adaptation.

Anyway, I’m curious to see what has become of Qianmen, so sometime in the next couple of weeks I might take my camera and go for a walk down that way.

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